Sushi Koshikawa
A bookable omakase splurge, best done as a lunch — a ¥11,950 Saturday-lunch 10-piece Edomae set plus chawanmushi, the same craft as dinner at a fraction of the price.
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Places
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Sensō-ji
Tokyo's oldest temple, with the great Kaminarimon lantern gate and the Nakamise shopping street leading up to it. Busy, atmospheric, and free to enter.
Hama-rikyū teahouse
Matcha and a seasonal wagashi sweet at the Nakajima teahouse on the island in Hamarikyū Gardens — the easiest 'tea-ceremony lite' in Tokyo, no booking, with the bay and skyscrapers behind you.
Ura-Harajuku & Cat Street
The backstreets behind Harajuku — streetwear, select shops, and a handful of well-known vintage stores. More fashion-forward and pricier than the western suburbs.
Kōenji vintage district
A dense, unpretentious cluster of second-hand and vintage shops a few minutes from Kōenji station — the classic Tokyo thrifting neighbourhood, heavier on everyday wear than designer pieces.
Nakano Broadway
A retro indoor shopping complex packed with collectibles, vintage toys, watches, manga and subculture stores — a covered warren over several floors.
Han no Daidokoro Bettei
A lively, mid-range yakiniku built around premium Yamagata Kuroge wagyu — known for rare cuts and a flame-seared wagyu beef sushi. Polished and easy for first-timers, with an English menu and staff.
Meiji Jingū
A vast forested Shinto shrine beside Harajuku — broad gravel approaches under tall torii, calm despite sitting in the middle of the city.
Sushi-no-Midori
Classic Edomae sushi with generous portions at neighbourhood prices — the Shibuya Mark City branch is walk-in friendly mid-afternoon.
Shimokitazawa
Laid-back neighbourhood known for vintage clothing, record shops, tiny cafés and small theatres. Walkable and browseable, with a younger, design-aware mix of stores.
Konjiki Hototogisu
Refined shio ramen built on a clam-and-truffle broth — aromatic and distinctive, a step away from the tonkotsu heavyweights.
Omoide Yokocho
A narrow postwar alley of ~80 tiny yakitori counters beside Shinjuku Station — smoke, lantern light and highballs. Touristy now, but the atmosphere is genuinely from another era.
Ramen Matsui
Silky noodles in three broths — soy, niboshi (dried sardine) and shio — near Shinjuku Gyoen. A 2026 Michelin Bib Gourmand and the newest canonical Tokyo ramen pick.
Rokurinsha
Benchmark tsukemen (dipping noodles) on Tokyo Ramen Street in the Tokyo Station basement — an easy slot before or after a shinkansen day.
teamLab Planets TOKYO
Immersive, wade-through digital art installations in Toyosu (the Planets venue — distinct from teamLab Borderless in Azabudai). Hugely popular; book timed tickets ahead.
Tsukiji Outer Market
The outer market where Tokyo's seafood always was — breakfast sushi, tamagoyaki sticks and grilled scallops from side-street stalls.
Sasagin
A Michelin Bib Gourmand izakaya with ~80 sake selections — the English-speaking master dials in a flight to your taste.
Ōedo Antique Market
One of Japan's larger open-air antique markets, held at the Tokyo International Forum — ceramics, textiles, prints, and bric-à-brac from dozens of dealers.
Shigetsu
Shōjin ryōri — Buddhist vegetarian cuisine — served on tatami inside Tenryū-ji temple, overlooking its gardens. A Michelin Bib Gourmand.
Kyo Yakiniku Hiro (Gion)
The flagship Gion branch of Kyoto's beef-shop-run Hiro group — refined whole-animal Japanese Black wagyu yakiniku in a quietly upscale Kyoto setting.
Kiyomizu-dera
Hillside temple famous for its big wooden veranda over the slope, with views across Kyoto. The approach lanes (Sannenzaka) are full of craft and snack shops.
Nanzenji Junsei
The definitive Kyoto yudofu (hot tofu) house — set in an Edo-period building with a 4,000 m² strolling garden, three minutes from Nanzen-ji.
Kikunoi Roan
Counter-seat kaiseki from the Kikunoi lineage (chef Yoshihiro Murata) — more relaxed than the three-star Honten, same philosophy, with some English-speaking chefs.
Tō-ji temple flea market (Kōbō-san)
A large monthly flea market in the grounds of Tō-ji temple — antiques, ceramics, food, plants and junk. Held on the 21st of each month.
Nishiki Market
A narrow covered market street — 'Kyoto's kitchen' — lined with stalls selling pickles, seafood, sweets, knives and tea. Permanent, not a flea market.
Pontochō
A lantern-lit dinner alley between Shijō and Sanjō by the Kamogawa — yakitori counters up to multi-course kaiseki. Early Sept is still kawayuka season, when eastern-side restaurants extend platforms out over the river.
Uji
Japan's matcha capital, ~30 min south of Kyoto — tea houses for properly whisked matcha and tea-ceremony sittings, plus Byōdō-in (the temple on the ¥10 coin) and quiet riverside walks. Far calmer than Nara.
Osaka Castle
Reconstructed castle keep set in a large moated park — good for a walk, with a museum and viewing deck inside the tower.
Mizuno
Michelin-recognized okonomiyaki in Dōtonbori — the yamaimo (mountain-yam) batter is the signature. Fukutaro nearby is more casual with a shorter wait.
Dōtonbori
Osaka's neon-lit canal-side strip of restaurants and signage — the Glico running man, giant crab, and street food everywhere. Best after dark.
Wanaka
Takoyaki done right near Dōtonbori — order 6–8 pieces and eat standing. Aizuya in Tamadetsuji is the birthplace if you want the pilgrimage.
Kuromon Ichiba
'Osaka's Kitchen' — a 580 m covered market of fresh sashimi, grilled scallops and A5 wagyu skewers. Touristy and a bit pricey now, but the quality holds.
Daruma
The most famous Shinsekai kushikatsu — deep-fried skewers at ¥100–200 each, at the foot of Tsūtenkaku tower.
Yakiniku Uchida
Butcher-run yakiniku named to Japan's top-100 (2025), grilling fresh domestic wagyu — including A5 Sendai beef — at honest prices. Only about a dozen counter seats.
Hakone-Yumoto onsen town
The gateway onsen town to the Hakone area — a shopping street of sweets and crafts by the river, and the transfer point for the rest of the loop.
Hakone Open-Air Museum
A sculpture park set across the Hakone hills — large outdoor artworks, a Picasso pavilion, and a foot-bath fed by hot spring water.
Miyajima — Itsukushima Shrine
Island shrine famous for its 'floating' torii gate at high tide, reached by a short ferry from near Hiroshima. (Tentative on our itinerary.)
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park
The memorial park and museum by the A-Bomb Dome — a sombre, essential stop. (Hiroshima is tentative on our itinerary.)
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